Absolutely gorgeous, pure genius! I would love to see the whitework up close, be sure to give us a photo! Don't you love the stark contrast of the black on white? The fit is extra nice as well. Kudos to you for your outstanding skill! Huggles, Melissa

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"Smile for the joy of others."

Awesome. I really like that you based this off an actually publication from the era.

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"My heart on the edge of the abyss you once called Night..."

I'd love it if you visited my main page: [link]

Awesome. I really like that you based this off an actually publication from the era.

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"My heart on the edge of the abyss you once called Night..."

I'd love it if you visited my main page: [link]

Ooh I like. I'll totally check S.H. for bigger images. It looks like you box pleated the back of the skirt, why didn't you gauge it? Is there a "rule" when to do which? Now is it one piece or two? Grrr this is what I get for not following the diary closer.

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Heather

Founder of the *HistoricCostume
Member of ~TextilesAlliance , *MedievalCommunity and ~Elizabeths-Court

These images are the same size as those on SH. I'll try to remember to keep a larger file when I take more pictures ^^.

There's a very informal rule regarded when to use gauging/cartridge pleating and when to use knife or box pleating. Gauging is used on everyday wear or lower-quality fabric, such as cotton, but if you look at my work dress only the back is gauged. Pleating is used for higher quality fabrics or formal wear. I don't think it is written in a period source, but I believe the idea comes observing the techniques used on period garments. In most cases, I decide simply on the sillhouette the different methods achieve.

I chose to use box pleating on this skirt because of the way I attached it to the bodice (so yes, this is a 1 piece dress). The pleats were sewn onto a twill-tape 'waistband', which was then whipstitched to the lining of the bodice. This is where I would generally stop, but I didn't like how the pleats were laying under the edge of the curves and points, so I stitched in the ditch of the piping on the lower edge of the bodice, except where it overlaps. Since I think I finally understand the side-front opening method, I think I will start technique pages at SH, so I can go into more detail about it.

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~leialte

Another point on the two techniques that might make my decision clearer -- I'll gauge if the bodice has a round waist, and or I'm attaching the skirt to the lower edge of the bodice. In this case I whipstitched the skirt on the inside of the bodice at the waist level instead of trying to shape the skirt to the pointed lower edge. Gauging would have created irregular bulk at the waistline of the skirt.

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~leialte

ooo very cool! it looks so complicated! you did an excellent job with it

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I wish I were a glow worm.
A glow worm is never glum,
Because how can you be unhappy,
When the sun shines out your bum?!

Proverbs 10:12

[link]

thats amazing, i mean really amaing.

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I WILL EAT YOUR CAT AND SHAVE YOUR PIG!

How can you walk around in that?!
It's huge!

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You're making me dizzy!